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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.